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      <h1 class="post-title">2019夏末呼伦贝尔行(3)：室韦口岸、黑山头</h1>

      <div class="post-meta">
        <span class="post-time"> 2019-10-26 </span>
        <div class="post-category">
            <a href="/categories/%E6%97%85%E6%B8%B8/"> 旅游 </a>
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          <span class="more-meta"> 约 2021 字 </span>
          <span class="more-meta"> 预计阅读 5 分钟 </span>
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    <div class="post-toc" id="post-toc">
  <h2 class="post-toc-title">文章目录</h2>
  <div class="post-toc-content always-active">
    <nav id="TableOfContents">
  <ul>
    <li><a href="#第三日">第三日</a>
      <ul>
        <li><a href="#室韦口岸">室韦口岸</a></li>
        <li><a href="#黑山头">黑山头</a></li>
        <li><a href="#黑山头蒙古包">黑山头蒙古包</a></li>
      </ul>
    </li>
  </ul>
</nav>
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</div>
    <div class="post-content">
      <h2 id="第三日">第三日</h2>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2019/1027/001ZzLsRzy7y5slnB7Wd8.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 第三日伪路书</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<h3 id="室韦口岸">室韦口岸</h3>
<p>临江镇已甚北，距离漠河不过一两日车程。但目标不是那里。我们启程沿中俄界河南下，向满洲里而去。</p>
<p>一路上贴着缓冲带铁丝网行驶，额尔古纳河在右侧蜿蜒。左右手景致截然不同。左侧随处可见麦田、油菜田、仿俄式的市镇，缓冲带里也养满了牛羊。右侧河对岸却只有辽阔的山野，萧条破旧的村庄。</p>
<p>在室韦口岸坐了船沿河中线行驶，左俄右中。俄国一侧，渡船和拖船都已经锈蚀报废，房屋圻颓。</p>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2019/1027/001ZzLsRzy7y4GbB0TPcd.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 额尔古纳界河中线</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2019/1027/001ZzLsRzy7y4GbHwHM32.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 额尔古纳界河中线</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>司机说，这个村穷到蛮荒，村民一样都不干，成天喝酒，就等政府救济。沿途青山遥遥，河两岸一马平川，得天独厚。然而毛子一侧最多攒些草垛子，也不往家里运，冬天赶牲口来野外堂吃。</p>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2019/1027/001ZzLsRzy7y4Gjywrdf7.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 对岸的俄罗斯</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>司机特别喜欢吐槽蒙古人和毛子。</p>
<div class="admonition quote"><p class="admonition-title">关于蒙古人</p>
<p>（他们）人不行，不爱跟他们打交道。爱喝酒，喝高了翻脸不认人，两口子干仗都拿刀子互相捅。到他们那儿收羊，手里有点钱了，多高价都不卖；钱花完了，多低价都卖。没谱。​皮糙肉厚，跟咱（汉人）完全不是一回事。零下的天气，蒙古娃穿着单毛衣就在外头玩，鼻子冻得通红，鼻涕一抹满脸冰渣子，爹妈根本不当回事。放着牛呢，喝点酒醉了就路边一躺，醒过来没事儿一样就回去了。</p>
</div>
<div class="admonition quote"><p class="admonition-title">关于蒙古菜</p>
<p>（我）不吃蒙古菜。​去蒙古人那儿收羊，正收拾牛粪呢，见来人了，手也不洗，就开始给我们弄吃的。根本受不了。</p>
</div>
<div class="admonition quote"><p class="admonition-title">关于毛子</p>
<p>真懒，​啥都不干，整天就光喝酒等救济。府政的车一个礼拜来一次，发物资。也不洗澡不剪头发，老埋汰了，跟野人似的。喝酒，最多吃点生肉。全村就一个老头，会到江边钓钓鱼。每次去就看见他一个，干这么一点谋生的事儿。</p>
</div>
<div class="admonition quote"><p class="admonition-title">关于俄国菜</p>
<p>吃不惯。不过俄餐厨房是真干净。​厨子特讲究，每把刀使一下就换。俄餐厅请个正宗俄毛主厨，得配四个助手。根本养不起。</p>
</div>
<h3 id="黑山头">黑山头</h3>
<p>沿途风光和金帐汗草原相似，但额尔古纳河横亘期间，产生了巨大的深沉的力量。山坡连绵交叠，像均匀地铺了一层绿绒布。油菜花依盛开，让人误以为还未入夏。但对于游客而言的奇景，对当地人并不是福音。这些油菜是因为大旱，延误了花期。后面收割也不会理想，只能直接铲掉。</p>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2019/1027/001ZzLsRzy7y4GhNBtD09.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 界河缓冲带</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2019/1027/001ZzLsRzy7y4GomenR8f.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 界河旁的油菜花</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2019/1027/001ZzLsRzy7y4GosMCv73.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 界河旁的油菜花</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>这么美的景致，不用无人机航拍可惜了啊。但是不行。沿途到处都是横幅标语，不完全采风如下：</p>
<div class="admonition quote"><p class="admonition-title">国境标语们</p>
<ul>
<li>非法越境，国法不容</li>
<li>违法渡江，魂断他乡</li>
<li>严禁越境放牧</li>
<li>国境前沿，禁止航拍</li>
<li>严禁在界河捕捞</li>
<li>严禁盗挖野生药材</li>
<li>严禁盗挖古墓</li>
</ul>
<p>……</p>
</div>
​​​
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2019/1027/001ZzLsRzy7y4GpSrdq4c.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 界河缓冲带里的牛群</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2019/1027/001ZzLsRzy7y4GoGvPkda.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 界河缓冲带里的牛群</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2019/1027/001ZzLsRzy7y4GoN8Jvdd.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 界河缓冲带里的牛群</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2019/1027/001ZzLsRzy7y4GoS7m404.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 界河河曲</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>途径一片向日葵农场。正是结子的时节，葵花被压得头低低的，也管不了太阳的方向了。外面是一户蜂农，卖葵花蜜。买了一些，并不很甜。</p>
<p>沿途蜂农挺多，很多是江浙和四川人，追着花期来到了东北。​</p>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2019/1027/001ZzLsRzy7y4GqhSka92.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 向日葵</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2019/1027/001ZzLsRzy7y4GiE3Cz03.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 向日葵</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2019/1027/001ZzLsRzy7y4GquShm7c.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 过马路的牛群</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2019/1027/001ZzLsRzy7y4GqAtfI82.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 黑山头草甸</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>黑山头是扎木合称汗的地方，有个古城遗址。不过没去。跑到三河马马场去滑草。还挺赤鸡的，速度有多快呢？很多蚊子来不及躲闪，被我一脸撞飞。</p>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2019/1027/001ZzLsRzy7y4Gpo4pTe5.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 滑草</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>在马场约了一小时骑马。骑马前先穿戴护具，交代安全事项。听着挺正规。「据说」出事故死过人，所以马倌都很谨慎。</p>
<p>出发了。马倌嘱咐，蹬紧马镫，攥缰握把，马刺加速，勒缰刹车。这不就手动挡汽车？听着不难嘛。</p>
<p>待爬上马去，发现三河马有点高，自己的这匹又有些躁，不停甩头。心下略有退缩。好在走起来就顺了。这马被苍蝇叮得心烦，就老往其他马的屁股后拱，指望别人的尾巴帮它赶虫。但只要拉一把缰绳，它就会乖乖往边上走。</p>
<p>一来二去，指哪儿打哪儿。有点得意，差不多算是领悟骑马要诀的人了吧。</p>
<p>幻觉没持续很久。马听了口哨声，跟着其他几匹瞎起哄小跑了起来。屁股顿时被颠毁，脚也颠飘了。整个人左右摇晃。赶紧拽缰绳刹车。后续的路只敢收速慢行，不敢放肆。</p>
<p>马心里怎么想我不知道，不过整天驼个菜鸟慢慢走一小时，肯定挺乏味的。</p>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2019/1027/001ZzLsRzy7y4I3LJ7zc1.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 骑三河马</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2019/1027/001ZzLsRzy7y4HW5ZJA16.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 骑三河马</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>​骑完马，在牧访户家喂羊挤牛奶。标准亲子游环节。作为体验环节，是挺有趣的。</p>
<p>主人讲，去年同期，旅游旺得很，今年差太多了。呼伦贝尔主要是北上广的人去，算小长途。旅游口碑没有崩塌，但客流暴跌，只能说明大家兜里真没钱了。</p>
<p>不过，由于天气偏暖，草绿花繁，加上人气下滑，价格下跌，等国庆长假时，很多人又转而跑去了呼伦贝尔，酿成扎堆惨剧。​</p>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2019/1027/001ZzLsRzy7y4GAt0vBbf.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 蒙古妇女</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2019/1027/001ZzLsRzy7y4GsZ5ZYae.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 牵牛的……蒙古妇女</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2019/1027/001ZzLsRzy7y4Gt7n5P1d.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 喂羊羔</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2019/1027/001ZzLsRzy7y4GzG77q88.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 也来喂羔</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>我也凑趣喂了几把草，小羊挺活泼可爱。不过等成年后，它们就会变得爱使性子，还是做不得合格的宠物。</p>
<h3 id="黑山头蒙古包">黑山头蒙古包</h3>
<p>夜宿仿蒙古包民宿。周边都是这类营地，晚饭时各棚都嗷嗷高歌，震耳欲聋。晚饭后又是篝火晚会，土味电音加农金情歌，主持人热情爆缸地串场，间或放几轮烟花。真是震得人肝肠寸断。来之前也想不到蒙古包主题跟大庙会怎么扯上了关系。大概是对顾客“草原休闲游”这个需求误解太深？</p>
<p>好在下起了雨。十点许，庙会总算散了。</p>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2019/1027/001ZzLsRzy7y4GG4nyM08.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 蒙古毡客房</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
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<div class="admonition tip"><p class="admonition-title">吃</p>
<p>来到林牧交界区，白天吃了东北风格铁锅炖鱼，锅边贴一圈玉米饼，特别香。晚上自然就是烤羊肉。​</p>
</div>
<p>[待续]</p>
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